An Irish Odyssey - Family Comes to Galway

Before I begin, you should know that this is no ordinary entry. The following reading material will serve as, yes, a traditional blog post but also a free guide on "How to See All of Ireland in 5 Days." Better than any guide book or bus tour, I guarantee you that. Take notes, because this is definitely the way to do Ireland.

I obviously did not plan out the events of the past week.  My Dad devised this master plan, and so I defer all credit his way.  If that hint, or rather the name of this post didn't give it away, then the answer is yes.  My family just visited me in Ireland. My Mom, Dad, and Scott arrived in Galway on Friday morning, February 15th.  Thomas couldn't make the trip because of baseball commitments, roll 'Pards. They stayed for five days and left in the middle of this past week.  They were five of the most jam-packed, greatest days I've had abroad so far.  I would have written this earlier, but I'm still detoxing from all of the excitement and the flurry of activity. Anyway, they arrived on a sunny Friday morning and I met them at their bed and breakfast, the Adare Guest House. After a glorious reunion, they dropped off their bags and we headed right into town.  Not a minute was to be wasted this trip.

I showed my parents all of the highlights in Galway (shop street, the Cathedral, school, the bay, etc.) and we ate breakfast at Griffin's Bakery on shop street.  The free food was a pleasant surprise and had become a bit of a foreign concept.  Wait there's a restaurant in Galway that gives away free breakfasts? After giving the grand tour my parents rested up and caught up on some sleep while I had to come back to my room for a skype interview. That night we met back in town at my favorite pub, The Front Door, for a Guinness before dinner.  Some of my friends met us in the Front Door and then we had fish and chips at McDonaghs. The Quays for a taste of Galway live music and then back to the Guest House for a warm hotel bed. 

Saturday

On Saturday morning we woke up and had an Irish breakfast.  For those of you misfortunate souls who have never experienced a full Irish breakfast, feast your eyes. This would certainly not be my last of the trip, by the way.

After enjoying a breakfast where the meat to egg ratio is about 7:1, we picked up Megan from her apartment, and drove to the Cliffs of Moher.  The drive to the Cliffs was an adventure in itself.  Driving on the opposite side of the road was obviously an adjustment, but throw in traffic circles and the terrible roads in Ireland and it's easy to see how the drive (anywhere, really) was a total THRILL ride. JANIS! JANIS!

  

The Cliffs of Moher were unbelievable.  These massive cliffs overlook the Atlantic Ocean and it literally feels like you are at the edge of the world.  We spent a good deal of time here, admiring the beauty and snapping pictures, among other things....

Hey Gang!!

Church in Castleisland. Villanova

After the Cliffs we drove down to Castleisland, where my grandmothers cousin Mary McCarthy lives.  The McCarthy family owns a bar in Castleisland, and it is regarded by most as the best pub in town.  We stopped there for a drink and met some relatives (who all work in the bar) and then had dinner with Mary herself, who is essentially the mayor of this town.  It was great to learn more about my family's Irish history and just be in the company of the cutest and happiest Irish woman you could imagine.

McCarthy's Pub, the "central bar"

Sunday

I started the day with yet another Irish breakfast and then we went to Mass in Castleisland.  So neat to be in the church where many ancestors have also been to mass, quite an experience.  We then drove south, continuing the Irish tour, to the Ring of Kerry.  The Ring of Kerry is a legendary drive along the western coast of southern Ireland.  The five hour drive was filled with jaw dropping ocean views, mountains, I would estimate close to 1 million sheep, and the downtown of a miscellaneous Irish town every twenty minutes or so. The Ring of Kerry is better served via pictures, as words don't seem to capture the vastness or beauty of the day's drive.  

Typical small town along the ROK

Rental Car, thank God for insurance

Scoots!

Ring of Kerry, in a nutshell.

Ugh thise pictures look so depressing. Not impressed.

Kind of a gloomy day so the pictures may seem underwhelming. You had to be there. Yeah. Um. Well hey then I found 20 dollars!

After a sensory overload from the Ring of Kerry and a longing for civilization, we crossed the river Shannon via ferry and eventually pulled into the last stop of the day: Killarney.  Killarney is a decent sized city, and one of the nicest towns I have seen in Ireland.  It is smaller than Galway but has a nice downtown and it was home to our hotel for the night, which was on top of Murphy's Bar.  

We all grabbed dinner and then went to The Grand, a part bar-part pub-part dance club that had a great live band and a, how to I put this nicely, enthusiastic clientele of young Australian tourists. Best part about this town was that the band playing in The Grand had easily an 84 year old drummer who absolutely melted faces. Dude was the ultimate BAWS.

Shoutout to Gramma Foran

   After yet another glorious nights sleep in a cloud-like hotel bed, we ate ANOTHER Irish breakfast and then were back in the car for more activities and sight seeing. SO MANY ACTIVITIES!! 

Monday - Blarney Castle 

On Monday we drove even further South to Cork to see arguably the most tourist-y thing that Ireland has to offer: the Blarney castle.  The castle was actually a pleasant surprise and it was way bigger than I ever imagined.  Also, the entire place was free to roam and explore which was neat.  Once at the top we all kissed the Blarney stone, which apparently gives you the "gift of gab."

Blarney Castle

Mama kissing the Blarney Stone

After "that time we all got herpes in Ireland from kissing that gross rock," we drove back up towards Galway through Offaly County.  Offaly is in the midlands of Ireland and this is where my grandmother's father's side of the family is from: the pesky old Guinan's.  We went to Maura (my grandmother's cousin) and Gerry Corcoran's house for dinner and she made a traditional Irish meal of stew and potatoes and apple pie and tea and coffee and cookies and soda bread and the list goes on and on. Impeccable hospitality.  Then, one by one, various cousins and aunts and uncles trickled into the house.  By the time that we left dinner there must have been 20 people in this one room all sharing stories about the family and their lives in Ireland.  This was definitely the highlight of the trip for me, and I genuinely felt like I was in the real Ireland. These folks were so welcoming and it was awesome to see the similarities between my family back home and this, my new found Irish family. 

Note the nose, we all have it

This is how you get treated in the Guinan family:

Tuesday

On Tuesday morning my parents and Scott greeted me at my apartment with an egg McMuffin. Win. We then drove up to the Knock Shrine in Mayo.  The shrine is the site of a recognized (in Ireland they would spell this word recognised) miracle where there was an apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, and John the Evangelist and Jesus Christ (as the Lamb of God) in 1879.  15 people of varying ages saw this vision on the wall of the church and it lasted for over two hours.  The grounds of Knock were beautiful and there's really something special about that place, tough to describe. This memorial depicts the apparition:

We decided to take advantage of the sunshine on the drive back to Galway and cut through Connemara. Connemara is very similar to the Ring of Kerry in that the real thing to see is the scenery itself.  Huge mountains and plenty of gross sheep and lakes and farms.  Highlight of this day was getting out of the car and "bah"-ing at sheep.  If you've never made sheep noises to a field of 50+ sheep in Ireland and had them ALL "bah" back at you then you do not know what true comedy is. 

This is what a sunny day in Ireland looks like

Kylemore Abbey in Connemara. I went back to Conemara this weekend with the Galway Tour Company and did the official tour. Unreal.

The last item on the agenda was dinner in Galway with the family and Erin, and then it seemed as soon as they arrived they were leaving for an early Wednesday flight. This just about wraps up the end of the world's fastest five days in Ireland.  We covered so much ground and got to see so much of the country, it really was such a successful visit.  Being with my parents and Megan and Scott made it feel like a mini vacation of sorts.  I commend my Dad for planning out such a great itinerary and re-writing the book on how to tour Ireland, if you look at a map of Ireland we essentially did one giant loop. BRILLIANT!

I apologize for the length of saga that I just crafted, it truly was an Odyssey.  Shoutouts to Emily and Rachel, as well as MB and the twins for the skype sessions in the middle of writing this post.  Just want to say thanks again to my parents for coming all this way and showing me such a great time, when it's traditionally supposed to be the other way around. And Thomas, I speak for all parties when I say that you were sorely missed my friend.

This past week was RAG week which was just a joke. Youtube RAG week Galway 2013 to appreciate the caliber of my peers. Possibly another post in the future about those shenanigans.  Looking forward to a normal week and getting back into a routine.  Spring Break is just around the corner it's hard to believe. HUGE plans. Huge win for Villanova last night, even bigger game tomorrow against Seton Hall I'm looking forward to that one.  Thanks for reading errbody!

New band I found called The Milk. Amazing album called Tales From The Thames Delta. Watch out for these cats...

Happy Monday....

Amsterdam

This past weekend I traveled to Amsterdam.

This Utopian city is located in the Netherlands (aka Holland aka Land of the DUTCH). And no, not everyone in this country looks/sounds/acts like Goldmember from Austin Powers.  Most people, yes, but certainly not all.  Reference the video to get a feel for my peers over the past 72 hours.

Amsterdam has always been high on my list of places to see during my time in Europe, and when I caught wind of a certain Dispatch concert, my travel plans were immediately confirmed.  I've subconsciously converted Erin into a Dispatch fan, and so she made the trek along with me.

Friday - Travel and Day One

We left Galway at 8:15 on a CityLink Bus that dropped us off at the Dublin Airport around 11.  After getting our boarding passes stamped (Zipper), we waited at the gate for our 1:15 flight.

This was my first experience flying with Ryanair.  I have heard some absolute horror stories in my day regarding this airline.  And so I expected a Ryanair flight to be more like this video:

Not at all.  I was pleasantly surprised by the folks at Ryanair  They got us there and back in one piece, the most basic criteria for any reputable airline.  I wasn't weaseled into any hidden fees or charges (that I know of), and most importantly the flights were on time.  I also managed to take the world's most overdone, cliche study abroad picture - rounding out the positive experience.

After landing at the Eindhoven Airport, we took an airexpressbus to Amsterdam Centraal Station, the main train station in the center of the city.  The building, it's niiiice.

Google Maps navigated us through this foreign concrete jungle to our hotel, which was on the complete opposite side of the city. Initial reactions of Amsterdam:



I was in absolute awe from the moment I stepped off the bus.  The city is gorgeous.  People on bikes, everywhere.  So many canals and bridges, all lit up in the night.  As a whole Amsterdam feels very old and rich in history, but there are also a few squares that have larger buildings and a lot more activity, giving Amsterdam that real city feel if you're looking for it.  The perfect combination.

We stayed at the ITC Hotel.  A typical hostel in Amsterdam cost around 20-25 euro per night.  This hotel was 25 a night, and was so much cleaner/safer/more civilized than any hostel we could find in the city.  The reviews of the hotel were 50/50, some saying it was great and others warning travelers to AVOID AT ALL COSTS.  Erin emailed the hotel and requested a room in the main building, and thankfully our wish was granted.  The room was small, but it was clean and had a canal view.  Not to mention that it was in a great location.

After settling in we decided to explore the city.  We ate dinner at an Argentinian Steakhouse.  I probably saw 50 such restaurants in Amsterdam, they are apparently super popular and for 10 euro, it was an awesome meal.  Naturally, our first stop was the Red Light District.  We were both curious and had to see what all the fuss was about.  I feel like most sane people check out the Red Light District just to say they were there, but try and leave as soon as possible.  Erin and I made an entire night of it, absolutely overstaying our visit.  We stopped at a few of the sketchiest bars that the city has to offer and yes, saw some lovely prostitutes.  It was absurd; half naked girls on display in the windows like objects.  Sad to an extent, but I guess Amsterdam is considered the "major leagues" of prostitution, so these girls succeeded in some respects.  Way to go ladies!  Best part of the RLD?  So many hilarious European bachelor parties, all of which had made t-shirts for the occasion. Quite a scene.  Unfortunately, you aren't supposed to take pictures so I'll leave it up to your imagination.  Run wild with it...

Saturday - Dispatch Concert

We woke up on Saturday and sampled the local fare, Dutch pancakes.  We ate breakfast at Pancakes! Amsterdam, and I ordered mine with with apples, nuts and ice cream.  A joke how good they were.  Earlier in the morning we rented bikes (an absolute necessity in Amsterdam) and so we rode around the city, eventually coming the The Blue Boat Company, where we bought tickets for a canal cruise. The canal cruise was a good way to see some parts of the city that one might not otherwise see but honestly I could have lived without it.  It felt very touristy and um, Asian.  Nonetheless it was a beautiful ride and we were inside the boat during the only rain that day, so it worked out. Here are a few pictures from the day, hopefully capturing the beauty of the city.  (I edited these pictures ever so slightly using a Google app called SnapSeed, definitely check it out!)

After resting up in the hotel and grabbing a slice of pizza for dinner, we were ready for the MAIN EVENT, the Dispatch concert.  The show was at the Melkweg (Milky Way) and the doors opened at 8pm.  We got there at around 8:45, knowing Dispatch wouldn't come on until late.  The place may have housed 200 people max, easily the most intimate concert venue I've been in.  We caught the end of the opening act, a South African band called the Kongos, and before we knew it Dispatch was coming on the stage. I've turned into a huge fan of these guys over the past few years, thanks to you Matthew Mahoney.  I've seen them in concert a couple times, but never like THIS:

Our seats (spot really, there were no actual seats) were unbelievable, as you can see.  The concert was definitely a highlight of the trip, and Dispatch put on an amazing show.  I will attach a few videos for your viewing pleasure, hopefully giving you an idea of how cool and wild the atmosphere was.

They were so good.  My face was melted. My mind was blown. My soul was healed.  On and on...

After the concert we stopped into a few different bars.  My favorite bar from Amsterdam was called the Surprise Bar, and that it was.  It didn't look like much from the outside but inside was out of this world.  A team of Macho Dutch bartenders served as DJ's/the party hype crew.  Again, I'll let your imagination take over from here... 

Super Bowl Sunday Funday

Since we were in Amsterdam on the Super BOWL, we spent the entire day on Sunday smoking marijuana and out of a bowl.

Monday

Monday was our last day in the city, and so we decided to. Wait.  Mom, I am joking.  Here's what we really did on Sunday:

On Sunday morning the first thing we did was visit the Anne Frank House.  There was sort of a holy, sacred feel throughout the entire space.  It was a stark reminder that although Amsterdam is such a beautiful city, it too has a very dark past.  The museum takes you through a tour of the actual house where Anne Frank and seven other Jews lived in hiding from The Nazis for over two years.  I could never imagine staying indoors, with the blinds closed, for two entire years - especially not after visiting the 'huis'.  You actually get to go through the bookcase that covered the entrance and walk through the 'Secret Annex' where they lived.  Pictures were not allowed, but I wish I could share some here with you all.  The museum touched me deeply.  I've studied WWII all throughout my schooling but to actually be there, in the same room where Anne Frank lived and wrote made it more real than a textbook or a movie ever could.  If you ever travel to Amsterdam, stand on the line all day long if you have to because the Anne Frank House is so incredibly worth the wait.

After this we took a train out to Zaanse Schans, a small town that is about a 30 minute train ride from Amsterdam.  Leaving the comforts of the city, shattering study abroad norms.  Blazing new trails! We had seen this place in a few guide books, and decided it would be neat to check out the country, the real Netherlands.  I had no idea what to expect, but this turned out to be the most delightful surprise of the trip.  We got off the train and followed some signs to "Zaanse Schans," crossed over a bridge and then SAW IT.  My reaction, more or less:

 

This is approximately what I saw:

Windmills.  Clog Shops.  Cheese shops.  The entire town literally smelled like chocolate.  The most Dutch place you could ever imagine.  It was as if we were walking through the "Holland" part at Epcot, only this was the real thing.  Zaanse Schans was such a shock, and I never expected to see any of this during my trip to Amsterdam.

After an afternoon in the fairy tale that was ZS, we took a train back to Amsterdam, grabbed a bite to eat, and looked for a place to watch the SuperBowl.  Not gonna lie, I definitely missed an American Super Bowl.  A nice flatscreen TV and 4 hours of eating wings/dips/desserts/watching funny commercials....dream. After another long day, a quiet Super Bowl in the hotel was just fine.  The reception was shaky and by the time the fourth quarter started it was already 4am in Amsterdam, so yes I missed it. Go ahead, judge my masculinity all you want.  It's allowed.  Definitely not one of my finer moments.  Can't say I didn't predict the outcome of the game in an earlier blog post, though. Turned a clever profit with my Irish bookie.

Monday- Back to Galway

Monday morning we checked out of the beloved ITC Hotel and went to a famous outdoor market in Amsterdam.  It's about three blocks of shady vendors selling everything from clothes to bootleg rolexes to fries covered in mayonnaise to raw herring to waffles.  We grabbed breakfast and then went to Museumplein to take the obligatory picture in front of the I Amsterdam sign.  I didn't actually go inside any of the museums during my time in Amsterdam, but they're pricey and pshh culture is overrated, ja?

After the sign we grabbed some lunch at this place called La Place which had every type of food imaginable and then boarded a bus back to the Eindhoven airport. Monday was a long day of traveling (4pm-1am) but it was absolutely worth it for such a stellar weekend.  February, usually my least favorite month of the year, is off to a great start.  I have no regrets from Amsterdam and got to see and do everything that I wanted.  Traveling with Erin was such fun and also so easy, it's amazing how much more you can accomplish with just two people.  Amazing Race may be in our future.  

If anybody remains and actually read that whole thing, I applaud you.  Thanks for reading.  So I'm back in Galway now and so begins the waiting game until my Mom, Dad, and Scott visit me here in Ireland. Can't wait. So it was truly a weekend for the ages, and the highlight of my time abroad thus far.  Thanks for reading, and here's your song:

If you haven't already, do yourself a favor and see Django.  Until next time. Miss you all!